3 hours ago
The nomenclature of Ikats from Odisha is something I could get lost in; it really is one of my dreams to spend an entire day with someone who would be able to illustrate each and every motif and type by showing me what the different Sarees look like.
If you’re new to Odisha Ikats, there is one term that you could start off with, and that is ‘bandha’. I mentioned this fleetingly in my post last Friday; to recap, ‘bandha’ means tie and dye, but in the case of Odisha Ikats, this specifically refers to the tying and dying of yarns, and NOT the finished fabric itself.
Tie and dye is also the method used to produce Bandhani Sarees of Gujarat and Rajasthan, as well as Sungudis of Tamil Nadu, but in the case of these Sarees, it’s the fabric that is pinched, bound and dyed in order to create a pattern.
Bandha in Odisha Ikats refers to the binding and dyeing of bundles of yarn; this is a process I’ve described in my #incredibleikats series and can be easily researched online too. I’d suggest looking up a video, as this process really sinks in if visually absorbed.
So that’s the method down pat, and next you have the names of the Sarees itself. Here is where is gets a little murky for me, and I hope I’m able to explain this accurately. Let’s start with something common.
The Sambalpuri Saree is an umbrella term for a handwoven Saree that employs the bandha technique. This means there are a number of subsets under the Sambalpuri term; different designs are referred to by different names, such as Bichitrapuri or Pasapalli. It is also important to note that Sambalpuri Sarees are woven in other districts in Odisha and not only in the district of Sambalpur.
It can be quite a bit to take in, I know. So I’m providing a link in my profile page to a succinct article by Surender Meher that is a must read if you’re interested in Odisha Ikats. You’ll understand why he is my go-to guy, when you read his profile at the beginning of the article.
#sareeoftheday : Cream and Pine Green Nuapatna Single Ikat Cotton from the (now ended) Dastakar Nature Bazaar in Chennai
#accessoriesoftheday : Epoxy Conch Shell Earrings that my mother-in-law recently gifted me 💚